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The Evidence Atlas.

Every active and every oil, documented in full. For each active: what it does, the mechanism in plain language, how our disclosed concentration relates to the published topical dose, and the citation behind it. For each oil: its source, defining chemistry, and role in the formula. Read as deep as the question takes you.

Clinical activesFourteen
Botanical oilsTwenty-four
Actives cited toPeer review
How Neogen reads — and cites — the literature
Mechanism, dose context, and citation — given together for every active.
01Select each active for documented activity in the published topical literature.
02Disclose our concentration and set it beside the published topical dose, where one exists.
03Cite the mechanism and the study, with a PubMed link where a published record exists and a technical file where it does not.
04Reserve finished-formula endpoint claims for finished-formula testing, which is planned.
Macro of the dark reddish-amber Radiance oil-serum in warm light.
The active complex, carried in oil — every claim below traceable to a source
The fourteen actives

The evidence behind every active.

Each active with its role, mechanism, concentration context, and citation. Open any one to read it.

Tetrahexyldecyl AscorbateOil-soluble vitamin C ester
2.00%
Brightening
Stamford 2012 · Lin 2005
The oil-soluble ester of vitamin C. Unlike low-pH aqueous L-ascorbic acid, it integrates into lipid carriers and is cleaved by skin-resident esterases to release active ascorbate. Stamford 2012 and Lin 2005 document its stability and antioxidant behavior in topical use. We disclose 2.00%, within the published 1.5–3.0% topical range, paired with 0.50% Ferulic Acid for added stability.

Oil-soluble ascorbate ester, cleaved intracellularly — not equivalent to acid L-ascorbic chemistry in low-pH aqueous vehicles.

Dose match
2.00% sits within the Stamford-reviewed 1.5–3.0% topical range.
Citations
NiacinamidePharmaceutical grade
2.00%
Brightening
Bissett 2005 · Hakozaki 2002
A form of vitamin B3. It supports barrier function through NAD+/NADH-linked ceramide synthesis and contributes to visible tone evenness through a separate pigment-transfer pathway. Hakozaki 2002 established the pigment-transfer mechanism; Bissett 2005 documented visible improvement in tone, red blotchiness and sallowness at 5% twice daily. We disclose 2.00% — within published topical-use range, below the 5% at which Bissett recorded visible change.

Barrier support through ceramide synthesis is a documented secondary mechanism; the primary role here is brightening.

Dose match
2.00% sits within published topical-use range; the pigment-transfer mechanism is documented by Hakozaki 2002, and Bissett 2005 reported visible change at 5%.
Citations
Bakuchiol≥99% purity, psoralen-controlled
1.00%
Renewal
Dhaliwal 2019 · Chaudhuri 2014
A meroterpene phenol whose gene-expression pattern overlaps retinol-regulated pathways — a botanical retinoid, without being vitamin A. Dhaliwal 2019 compared 0.5% Bakuchiol twice daily against 0.5% retinol once daily over twelve weeks and found comparable improvement in wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, with better tolerability. We disclose 1.00% in a daily-use anhydrous serum, double the 0.5% Dhaliwal concentration.

The “botanical retinoid” framing rests on the documented retinol-like gene-expression overlap in Chaudhuri 2014 — not category shorthand.

Dose match
1.00% sits above the Dhaliwal 2019 0.5% study concentration while remaining inside topical cosmetic range.
Citations
Ferulic Acid≥98% purity
0.50%
Brightening
Lin 2005
A hydroxycinnamic acid that stabilizes vitamin C against oxidation and reinforces the formula's lipid-phase antioxidant behavior. Lin 2005 established the vitamin C + E + ferulic combination at 0.5% ferulic acid. We disclose exactly 0.50%, paired with 2.00% THD Ascorbate and the tocopherol-bearing oils — stabilizing the brightening actives rather than standing alone.
Dose match
0.50% matches the Lin 2005 ferulic concentration exactly.
Citations
SilymarinStandardized complex ≥80%
1.00%
Brightening
Berardesca 2008 · evidence file
A flavonolignan complex — silybin, silychristin, silydianin and related constituents — documented as a keratinocyte-supporting polyphenol under oxidative stress. Berardesca 2008 used topical silymarin at 0.5% in a reactive-skin context. We disclose 1.00%, the upper end of the published topical-use range, adding polyphenol depth to the brightening actives.
Dose match
1.00% is above the Berardesca 2008 topical 0.5% reference, at the upper published range for the standardized complex.
Citations
Berardesca 2008 — technical evidence file
Naringenin≥95% purified flavanone
0.50%
Brightening
Martinez 2016 · Wang 2017
The primary flavanone of Citrus species, purified here rather than delivered as a crude peel extract. In topical mechanism literature it supports the antioxidant-enzyme response and reduces UVB-induced inflammatory cytokine expression. It works alongside Ferulic Acid and Silymarin as a second-line polyphenol supporting the vitamin C actives.
Dose match
0.50% purified Naringenin, inside published topical-use range.
Citations
Martinez 2016 / Wang 2017 — technical evidence file
Licorice Root ExtractGlycyrrhiza Glabra, ≥40% glabridin
0.50%
Brightening
Yokota 1998 · evidence file
Contributes glabridin, an isoflavonoid documented to interrupt tyrosinase-driven pigment synthesis, along with glycyrrhizin-family soothing context. Its role is a third brightening pathway: THD works on the ascorbate route, Niacinamide on pigment transfer, and glabridin on tyrosinase — three distinct mechanisms toward even tone rather than one.
Dose match
0.50% extract standardized to a meaningful glabridin fraction.
Citations
Yokota 1998 / Simmler 2013 — technical evidence file
Pterostilbene≥98% purity
0.30%
Renewal
McCormack 2013 · Sirerol 2015
A methylated stilbene related to resveratrol, with greater lipophilicity and stronger skin-lipid compatibility. McCormack 2013 and Sirerol 2015 document its antioxidant and photoprotective behavior. It gives Bakuchiol a polyphenol partner with deeper lipid-phase persistence, so renewal rests on more than a single ingredient.
Dose match
0.30% is the formula's stilbene-support concentration in the active complex.
Citations
Beta-Sitosterol≥90% purity
0.30%
Barrier
Loden 2003 · evidence file
A plant sterol structurally analogous to cholesterol — one of the lamellar lipids that helps organize the skin barrier. Loden 2003 documents phytosterols in barrier-lipid support. It pairs the turnover support of Bakuchiol and Pterostilbene with lipid-scaffold support, so an ambitious renewal load does not fall on the barrier alone.
Dose match
0.30% sits in the formula's supporting-active tier, carried by the 24 botanical oils.
Citations
Loden 2003 — barrier-lipid technical evidence file
IdebenonePharmaceutical grade, ≥98%
1.00%
Defense
McDaniel 2005
A short-chain benzoquinone with topical environmental-protection literature. The McDaniel 2005 panel evaluated idebenone against familiar cosmetic antioxidants on ROS scavenging, photoaging markers and sunburn-cell formation, with a clinical photodamage assessment at 0.5% and 1.0%. We disclose 1.00% — the higher of the two concentrations McDaniel tested clinically — working with Astaxanthin and R-Alpha Lipoic Acid across three redox compartments.
Dose match
1.00% is the higher of the two doses (0.5% / 1.0%) evaluated in McDaniel 2005 — the concentration that performed better on several endpoints.
Citations
AstaxanthinAlgae-derived keto-carotenoid
0.20%
Defense
Tominaga 2017 · Davinelli 2018
A xanthophyll keto-carotenoid whose polar termini and lipophilic backbone let it span the lipid bilayer, so its ROS-quenching happens at the lipid/water interface rather than in one compartment. The often-cited ≈6,000× vitamin E figure comes from singlet-oxygen quenching assays; we pair the number with the membrane-spanning chemistry that explains it. Tominaga 2017 and Davinelli 2018 document its role in skin condition. We disclose 0.20%, near the upper edge of stable topical use for this pigment-rich format.

Membrane-interface antioxidant chemistry is distinct from photoprotection chemistry; Radiance remains a cosmetic serum, not a sun-care product.

Dose match
0.20% sits near the upper edge of stable topical cosmetic use for this pigment-rich oleoresin format.
Citations
R-Alpha Lipoic AcidThioctic acid, R-isomer specified
0.50%
Defense
Beitner 2003 · Packer 1995
The biologically occurring enantiomer of thioctic acid. Its dithiolane ring and carboxylic-acid tail give it amphiphilic behavior, and its redox cycling helps regenerate oxidized vitamin C and vitamin E toward their active states. We specify the R-isomer rather than a commodity racemate and disclose 0.50%, where it works as the formula's redox recycler rather than a frontline ROS quench.

Formulated below the Beitner 2003 5% clinical-cream dose: R-Alpha Lipoic Acid works as the formula's redox recycler — regenerating vitamins C and E — not a standalone high-dose active.

Dose match
0.50% sits below the Beitner 2003 5% clinical-cream concentration — measured in a water-containing cream, a different vehicle from this anhydrous oil serum — while remaining a meaningful topical use for the R-isomer.
Citations
Bisabololα-enantiomer specified
0.30%
Barrier
Maurya 2014
A sesquiterpene alcohol used in cosmetic calmative systems. Maurya 2014 documents inhibitory activity against pro-inflammatory cytokine cascades in skin-cell models. We disclose 0.30% to help the serum feel composed on application while the active ingredients stay at meaningful concentrations rather than trace levels.
Dose match
0.30% is a mid-range cosmetic-use concentration for purified alpha-bisabolol.
Citations
Calendula CO₂ ExtractCalendula Officinalis, CO₂-extracted
0.50%
Barrier
Della Loggia 1994 · Preethi 2009
Calendula's documented cosmetic value sits in the lipophilic triterpene fraction, especially faradiol monoesters; a CO₂ extract captures that fraction more cleanly than a water infusion or oil maceration. Della Loggia 1994 and Preethi 2009 document its anti-inflammatory and skin-support activity. It adds a plant-matrix dimension to the soothing role beside Bisabolol's single-molecule action.
Dose match
0.50% sits inside published topical-use range for the CO₂-extracted material.
Citations
The botanical architecture · twenty-four oils

Every oil, chosen for its phytochemistry.

Twenty-four botanical oils across four formulation phases. Concentrations stay proprietary; what we document here is the chemistry that earns each one its place.

APhase A · foundation
Green Coffee Bean OilCoffea Arabica Seed Oil
Balanced fatty acids; cafestol + kahweol
Signature molecules
Cold-pressed from unroasted Coffea arabica beans, keeping the native diterpene fraction intact. A balanced fatty-acid profile with cafestol and kahweol as its distinctive minor molecules. The largest single carrier oil, and the base the rest of the lipid architecture builds on.
Cacay OilCaryodendron Orinocense Seed Oil
~75% linoleic; native tocopherols
Linoleic + omega
Cold-pressed from Caryodendron orinocense nuts, from the Colombian and Venezuelan Amazon. Its linoleic fraction reaches roughly 75%, among the highest documented for any common plant oil. Balances the oleic-stable oils with a barrier-relevant omega-6 profile and native tocopherols.
Pomegranate Seed OilPunica Granatum Seed Oil
Punicic acid ~65–80% (conjugated linolenic); tocopherols
Signature molecules
Cold-pressed from Punica granatum seed. Its signature is punicic acid, a conjugated-linolenic fatty acid reaching 65–80% of the profile — a level almost no other plant oil supplies. Native tocopherols extend in-bottle stability.
Açai Berry Fruit OilEuterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil
Oleic-rich; anthocyanins, polyphenols
Signature molecules
Pressed from Euterpe oleracea fruit; an oleic-rich base carrying a native anthocyanin and polyphenol fraction that survives extraction. The deep pigment is the signature that travels with the lipid.
Sea Buckthorn Fruit OilHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
Palmitoleic omega-7 ~30–35%; carotenoids
Signature molecules
Expressed from the pulp of Hippophae rhamnoides berries. A palmitoleic omega-7 fraction of 30–35% — among the highest documented in any plant oil — paired with a deep carotenoid signature.
Buah Merah Fruit OilPandanus Conoideus Fruit Oil
Beta-carotene, tocotrienols, oleic
Signature molecules
Pressed from the cooked fruit of Pandanus conoideus, native to the highlands of West Papua. A deep beta-carotene fraction colors the oil red, paired with native tocotrienols and an oleic-rich base — a dual signature few cosmetic-use oils carry.
Baobab Seed OilAdansonia Digitata Seed Oil
Balanced profile; palmitoleic omega-7; tocopherols
Texture + dry-down
Cold-pressed from Adansonia digitata seed, a community-collected by-product of fruit-pulp harvest in Senegal, Malawi, Zimbabwe and Kenya. An unusually balanced fatty-acid profile with a notable palmitoleic (omega-7) fraction — the second omega-7 source alongside Sea Buckthorn, from a different geography.
BPhase B · omega layer
Passion Fruit Seed OilPassiflora Edulis Seed Oil
Linoleic-dominant ~70–75%; light dry-down
Linoleic + omega
Cold-pressed from Passiflora edulis seed; a linoleic-dominant profile of 70–75% with a light dry-down. Anchors the linoleic axis of Phase B.
Rosehip Fruit OilRosa Canina Fruit Oil
Linoleic + alpha-linolenic; tocopherol trace
Linoleic + omega
Extracted from the fruit of Rosa canina; a polyunsaturated profile of linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids with a native tocopherol trace. We treat it as an omega-rich support layer, not a “natural retinoid” — a framing that overstates the literature on this oil.
Black Currant Seed OilRibes Nigrum Seed Oil
GLA ~15–18%; alpha-linolenic
Linoleic + omega
Cold-pressed from Ribes nigrum seed; a gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) fraction of 15–18% — a barrier-relevant omega-6 derivative few common plant oils supply at that level.
Buriti Fruit OilMauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil
Very high beta-carotene; oleic base
Signature molecules
Expressed from Mauritia flexuosa, the Amazonian moriche palm. A very high native beta-carotene fraction over an oleic-rich base. Pairs with Pequi to give the serum its honest red-gold color — the native tone of carotenoid-rich oils, not an added dye.
Amaranth Seed OilAmaranthus Caudatus Seed Oil
Native squalene ~6–8%; tocotrienols
Signature molecules
Cold-pressed from Amaranthus caudatus seed. A native squalene fraction of roughly 6–8% — a rare botanical source of a structural skin lipid most formulas obtain only as purified squalane.
Black Seed OilNigella Sativa Seed Oil
Linoleic-dominant; thymoquinone
Signature molecules
Cold-pressed from Nigella sativa seed. Linoleic-dominant with oleic support; the differentiator is thymoquinone, a heat-sensitive monoterpenoid that justifies the cold-pressed specification.
CPhase C · signature & stability
Prickly Pear Seed OilOpuntia Ficus-Indica Seed Oil
Highest tocopherol density characterized; linoleic
Signature molecules
Cold-pressed from Opuntia ficus-indica seed — a labor-intensive extraction yielding very little oil per kilogram. Carries the highest documented tocopherol concentration of any commonly characterized plant oil, in a linoleic-dominant base.
Pequi Fruit OilCaryocar Brasiliense Fruit Oil
Oleic-rich; beta-carotene, lycopene, zeaxanthin
Signature molecules
Pressed from Caryocar brasiliense fruit, native to the Brazilian Cerrado. A vivid carotenoid fraction — beta-carotene, lycopene and zeaxanthin-family color — over an oleic-heavy base. Its native color, with Buriti, gives the serum its red-gold tone.
Sacha Inchi OilPlukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil
~48% alpha-linolenic omega-3
Linoleic + omega
Cold-pressed from Plukenetia volubilis seed; an alpha-linolenic (omega-3) fraction near 48%, unusually high for a plant oil. Completes the fatty-acid range: Marula on oleic, Cacay on linoleic, Sacha Inchi on omega-3.
Kalahari Melon Seed OilCitrullus Lanatus Seed Oil
Linoleic ~50–60%; tocopherols
Linoleic + omega
Cold-pressed from wild Citrullus lanatus seed, native to the Kalahari Desert. Linoleic-rich at 50–60% with native tocopherols and a light register.
Jojoba Seed OilSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Liquid wax esters
Texture + dry-down
Technically a liquid wax ester rather than a triglyceride oil. Its long-chain wax-ester profile gives the formula a skin-compatible slip and a fast, polished dry-down no triglyceride can match.
Argan Kernel OilArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Oleic/linoleic balance; tocopherols
Oleic stability
Cold-pressed from Argania spinosa kernels. A balanced oleic and linoleic profile with native tocopherols — part of the formula's grounding, supporting barrier feel and oxidative resilience while the more unusual oils carry the signature molecules.
High Polyphenol Olive OilOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
Oleocanthal, hydroxytyrosol; oleic
Signature molecules
A high-polyphenol grade of Olea europaea fruit oil, specifically characterized for oleocanthal and hydroxytyrosol. Chosen for its phenolic signature, not its familiarity.
Marula OilSclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
Oleic ~70–78%; tocopherols, sterols
Oleic stability
Cold-pressed from Sclerocarya birrea kernels. An unusually high oleic fraction (70–78%) with low linoleic content — strong native oxidative stability and a quiet character that lets the more reactive oils appear without making the formula fragile.
DPhase D · finish
Ximenia Seed OilXimenia Americana Seed Oil
Ximenynic acid (rare acetylenic fatty acid)
Signature molecules
Cold-pressed from Ximenia americana seed. Its signature is ximenynic acid, a C18 acetylenic fatty acid rare in plant lipid chemistry; the triple-bond geometry is what makes the oil structurally interesting.
Pracaxi Seed OilPentaclethra Macroloba Seed Oil
Behenic acid ~19% (C22) cushion
Texture + dry-down
Cold-pressed from Pentaclethra macroloba seed. A behenic-acid fraction near 19% — among the highest in common plant-oil use — a very-long-chain (C22) saturated fatty acid that adds cushion and changes the dry-down.
Tamanu Seed OilCalophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil
Coumarins — calophyllolide, calaustralin
Signature molecules
Pressed from Calophyllum inophyllum seed. Its signature is the native coumarin fraction — especially calophyllolide and calaustralin — over an oleic/linoleic base.
Reference ledger

The citations, in one place.

Peer-reviewed sources behind the active drawers above. Where the evidence library carries a technical file rather than a PubMed record, the drawer is marked accordingly.

Bissett DL et al. 2005 ↗Niacinamide 5% and facial photoaging · PMID 16029679
Hakozaki T et al. 2002 ↗Niacinamide and pigment transfer · PMID 12100180
Dhaliwal S et al. 2019 ↗Bakuchiol vs retinol, 12-week RCT · PMID 29947134
Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K 2014 ↗Bakuchiol retinol-like gene expression · PMID 24471735
Lin FH et al. 2005 ↗Vitamin C + E + ferulic photoprotection · PMID 16185284
Stamford NPJ 2012 ↗Topical vitamin C review · PMID 23174055
McDaniel D et al. 2005 ↗Idebenone topical photodamage · PMID 17129261
Tominaga K et al. 2017 ↗Astaxanthin and skin condition · PMID 28751807
Davinelli S et al. 2018 ↗Astaxanthin in skin health review · PMID 29690549
Beitner H 2003 ↗5% alpha-lipoic acid cream, facial photoageing · PMID 14616378
Packer L et al. 1995 ↗Alpha-lipoic acid as a biological antioxidant · PMID 7649494
McCormack D, McFadden D 2013 ↗Pterostilbene review · PMID 23691264
Sirerol JA et al. 2015 ↗Pterostilbene and skin photoprotection · PMID 25881549
Maurya AK et al. 2014 ↗Alpha-bisabolol anti-inflammatory activity · PMID 24958062
Della Loggia R et al. 1994 ↗Calendula triterpene anti-inflammatory fraction · PMID 7809203
Preethi KC, Kuttan R 2009 ↗Calendula wound-healing activity · PMID 19601397
Berardesca E et al. 2008 — Silymarin, reactive skinTechnical evidence file — no PubMed record surfaced
Martinez RM / Wang S — Naringenin, topical mechanismTechnical evidence file — no PubMed record surfaced
Yokota T 1998 / Simmler C 2013 — Glabridin, tyrosinaseTechnical evidence file — no PubMed record surfaced
Loden M 2003 — Phytosterols and barrier lipidsTechnical evidence file — no PubMed record surfaced
On the scope of these claims

Each drawer names the ingredient-level source or technical file behind the mechanism, and where the literature reports a topical concentration, sets ours beside it. These are single-ingredient studies — several run on other formulations and, where noted, at concentrations different from ours. Finished-formula clinical endpoint claims are reserved for completed finished-formula testing, which is planned.

Back to the formula

See what the record became.

Fourteen disclosed actives. Twenty-four botanical oils. One anhydrous serum.